The Story of the Suitcase Clone: How One Man’s Vision Shaped American Pinot Noir
When discussing the great clones of Pinot Noir in the United States, the Calera clone stands apart. Unlike the well-documented heritage clones such as Pommard, Wadenswil, or the Dijon series, the Calera clone is an enigmatic and unique piece of American wine history. Rooted in the vision of Josh Jensen, the founder of Calera Wine Company, this clone has become synonymous with high-altitude, limestone-driven expressions of Pinot Noir. Today, it is used by select wineries that value its distinctive character — wines that offer a unique balance of power, structure, and finesse.
The Origins of the Calera Clone
The story of the Calera clone begins in the early 1970s, when Josh Jensen, a young and ambitious wine enthusiast, set out on a quest to bring Burgundy to California. Jensen had spent time in France, working at legendary Burgundian estates like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Dujac, where he developed a deep understanding of Pinot Noir’s potential when grown in limestone soils.
Returning to the United States, Jensen sought land with similar geological characteristics. After an extensive search, he found what he was looking for in the Gavilan Mountains of central California, near Hollister. This rugged, remote location — where limestone deposits were unusually abundant — became the home of Calera Wine Company in 1974.
Jensen, however, did not plant widely available Pinot Noir clones. Instead, he smuggled vine cuttings from Burgundy into the U.S., most likely from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) or a similarly prestigious source. The exact origins remain unverified due to the clandestine nature of the importation, but these cuttings became what is now known as the Calera clone.
Over time, Jensen’s plantings thrived in the cool-climate, high-altitude conditions of Mount Harlan, and the clone proved to have its own distinct characteristics. It was later propagated and used by a handful of wineries, though it never became as widespread as other clones like Dijon 115 or Pommard. Today, the Calera clone is recognized for its intense aromatics, fine tannins, and deep concentration of red fruit flavors, often accompanied by a signature minerality from its limestone roots.
Characteristics of the Calera Clone
The Calera clone stands out among other Pinot Noir selections due to its:
• High natural acidity — Wines made from the Calera clone often display a firm backbone of acidity, which enhances aging potential.
• Concentration and depth — Despite being Pinot Noir, which is often delicate, the Calera clone tends to produce wines with impressive intensity and structure.
• Earthy and mineral-driven notes — Limestone soils contribute to the distinct mineral streak found in many Calera-clone wines.
• Floral aromatics — These wines frequently express lifted aromas of violets, rose petals, and red berries.
Wineries Using the Calera Clone
While Calera Wine Company remains the spiritual home of the clone, a few select producers have embraced it in their winemaking, crafting wines that showcase its unique attributes.
Bouchaine Vineyards (Carneros, Napa Valley)
Bouchaine, the oldest continuously operating winery in Carneros, has championed the Calera clone in its Bouchaine Estate Pinot Noir and limited single-clone bottlings. Carneros’ cool, wind-swept terroir allows the Calera clone to retain its hallmark acidity while expressing bright red fruit, spice, and floral characteristics. The winery’s commitment to sustainable farming enhances the purity of expression in these wines.
2. Calera Wine Company (Mount Harlan, Central Coast)
Naturally, Calera’s Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir remains the benchmark expression of the clone. Sourced from Jensen’s original limestone-rich vineyards, these wines are known for their exceptional aging ability, depth of flavor, and Burgundian elegance. The Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir is especially prized for its complexity and balance, often compared to top-tier Premier and Grand Cru Burgundies.
3. Kosta Browne (Sonoma Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands, and Anderson Valley)
Kosta Browne, one of California’s most celebrated Pinot Noir producers, has experimented with the Calera clone in several of its bottlings. The winery’s Single Vineyard series often features Calera-clone Pinot Noir, contributing structure and a savory, mineral-driven complexity to the wines.
4. Rhys Vineyards (Santa Cruz Mountains)
Rhys Vineyards is another elite producer that has utilized the Calera clone, particularly in its Alpine Vineyard Pinot Noir. The Santa Cruz Mountains’ rugged terrain and limestone subsoils make it an ideal home for this clone, resulting in wines with depth, tension, and age-worthy structure.
The Legacy of the Calera Clone
The Calera clone remains a testament to Josh Jensen’s vision and determination. His belief in the importance of terroir — specifically limestone soils — led to a revolution in California Pinot Noir, influencing many who came after him. Though not as widely planted as Dijon clones, the Calera clone continues to produce some of the most distinctive and compelling Pinot Noirs in the country.
With wineries like Bouchaine, Rhys, and Kosta Browne continuing to champion this clone, its future remains bright. Wine lovers seeking elegance, minerality, and the unmistakable stamp of terroir would do well to seek out wines made from this remarkable piece of Pinot Noir history.
References:
• Bonné, Jon. The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste. Ten Speed Press, 2013.
• Brook, Stephen. The Wines of California. Infinite Ideas, 2016.
• McInerney, Jay. The Juice: Vinous Veritas. Vintage, 2013.
